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    Home » What To Settle Before Wood Siding Comes Off A Pre 1978 House

    What To Settle Before Wood Siding Comes Off A Pre 1978 House

    Ben AustinBy Ben AustinAugust 13, 2026No Comments2 Views

    How many more times are you willing to paint the same house? For anyone holding a wood sided foursquare built before 1978, that question usually arrives attached to a painter’s estimate and an ugly surprise underneath it, because the old coating tests positive for lead and the crew that quoted the job wants nothing to do with the prep. That is the point where owners stop calling painters and start pricing siding installers pittsburgh pa or whoever does the equivalent work in their own town. The case for replacement is arithmetic more than taste: a six year repaint cycle never ends, one properly installed fiber cement job does, and the prep plan is what decides whether the swap goes well or badly. Work through the following before a deposit leaves your hands.

    Contents

    • 1. Confirm The Build Year Before Anything Is Scraped
    • 2. Ask How A Crew Contains Old Paint Dust
    • 3. Check Whether Fiber Cement Suits Your Walls
    • 4. Price Repeat Repainting Against One Replacement
    • 5. Questions Owners Keep Asking About Old Coatings
      • 5.1. Can I just paint over lead paint and be done with it?
      • 5.2. Does the lead problem leave with the old siding?
      • 5.3. Should I have the soil around the house tested?
    • 6. Settle The Prep Plan Before Any Deposit

    Confirm The Build Year Before Anything Is Scraped

    1978 is the line that matters, since that is when lead was banned from residential paint. Your county assessor record or municipal property card carries the build year, it is usually free, and most of them are searchable online in a couple of minutes. If the house went up in 1912, as most of the foursquares in the old streetcar suburbs did, treat every layer under the current color as lead bearing until a test says otherwise. A certified inspector or a lab analyzed paint chip settles the question; the swab kits at the hardware store are a screen, not proof.

    A retired couple on a corner lot learned this in the worst order. They had set aside about $7,000 for a fresh coat, hired the lowest of three bidders, and watched the job halt on the second morning when a scraper came off a porch column loaded with chalky flakes. The bid was rewritten, containment costs landed on top of it, and the paint they eventually paid for is still due to fail again in six years.

    Ask How A Crew Contains Old Paint Dust

    Say this part plainly. Sanding, scraping, torching or power washing old paint on a pre 1978 house spreads lead dust across the yard, into the soil, and back through open windows into the rooms where your family sleeps. Federal lead safe rules prohibit power tools without HEPA capture on housing built before 1978 and require a certified renovator to run the work, which is the standard your contractor should be able to prove on paper. Children and anyone pregnant belong out of the work zone entirely while the old coating comes off, not upstairs with the windows shut. Hire a firm certified under that rule and ask to see the certificate rather than taking somebody’s word for it.

    • Is your company certified under the EPA’s Renovation, Repair and Painting rule, and can you send the certificate number? A good answer arrives as a document, not a reassurance.
    • How will you contain and dispose of the old coating? Listen for ground sheeting, HEPA vacuums, and a named disposal site.
    • Who tests the paint before the first tool touches the wall, and what does that testing cost? A good answer names a lab or a certified inspector and gives a figure.
    • What happens if the sheathing under the siding turns out to be rotted once the wall is open? A good answer quotes a per square foot repair rate in writing, up front.

    Check Whether Fiber Cement Suits Your Walls

    Fiber cement is heavy, and it is only as good as whatever sits behind it. A wall already holding moisture will keep holding it under new board, so the inspection that happens before the quote matters more than the brand name on the box. A May 2026 explainer from AMPM Restorations put the timeline bluntly: mold spores can begin germinating on damp surfaces within 24 to 48 hours of water exposure, and the company reports that intervening inside that window cuts the cost of the cleanup by roughly 40 percent. The question worth asking a contractor is therefore not whether fiber cement is a good product, it is what they intend to do on the afternoon they open a wall and find wet sheathing.

    There is a related fight about the original wavy glass in the sashes, which owners of a 1912 house tend to defend to the last, and frankly they are right to; interior storm panels save more heat than replacement windows and cost a fraction of them. Different project, different budget. Back to the walls: prefinished fiber cement holds its color far longer than a brush coat over hundred year old wood, and on a house this size that difference is the entire argument.

    Price Repeat Repainting Against One Replacement

    Run the numbers before the feelings. Say a full scrape and repaint on the foursquare runs about $7,000 a round, as it has the last two times, and it comes due every six years. Over 24 years that is four rounds and roughly $28,000 in current dollars, and at the end of it you still own a wood sided house that needs painting. Add the containment premium now that the old coating has tested positive, another $2,000 or so per round, and the same stretch reads closer to $36,000 against one fiber cement installation carrying a manufacturer warranty. Those figures are illustrative and your bids will differ. In practice, the number owners underestimate is never the siding quote, it is the fourth repaint nobody bothered to put on the calendar.

    Questions Owners Keep Asking About Old Coatings

    Can I just paint over lead paint and be done with it?

    Encapsulation is a legitimate option and it is cheaper up front, but it only holds on a surface that is genuinely sound. On siding that is flaking, chalking, and coming apart after decades of sun, the encapsulant fails along with the layer underneath it. You end up back on the ladder within a few years, which is the cycle you were trying to leave in the first place.

    Does the lead problem leave with the old siding?

    Largely, and that is much of the appeal. Once the painted boards come off and are disposed of properly, the coating that had been shedding into your beds and lawn is gone rather than sealed over. Trim, soffits and window casings frequently stay, though, so ask early what the plan is for the painted parts nobody is replacing.

    Should I have the soil around the house tested?

    It is worth doing if children play in the yard, because decades of scraping have already put flakes into the top few inches along the drip line. Many university extension labs run soil lead tests for a modest fee and turn them around in a couple of weeks. Testing first also gives you a baseline before any crew starts, which is a useful thing to hold if the condition of the yard is ever disputed.

    Settle The Prep Plan Before Any Deposit

    A deposit is the last moment you hold real leverage, so spend it on paper. Get the certification number, the containment method, the paint testing results, the rot contingency rate and the disposal plan written into the contract before money moves, and treat any of those left vague as a reason to keep interviewing. Whether you are comparing siding installers pittsburgh pa homeowners already recommend or a crew in another state entirely, the questions do not change and the good outfits answer them without flinching. Old paint does not negotiate, and the repaint cycle will keep sending you the same bill every sixth summer until something structural about the house changes.

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    Ben Austin

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